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If you would draw a card during your draw step, instead you may skip that draw. If you do, until your next turn, you can't be attacked except by creatures with flying and/or islandwalk.
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|Have (8)||Supremespeed , Gabeph , MoJoMiXuP , acbooster , Dr_Jay , CampbellStev , Mousemke , TheBl0b|
Island Sanctuary Discussion
4 weeks ago
I will take your word for the power of your Pillow Fort in your meta, but I don't see anything that is overly powered beyond the usual Marchesa Fort. Lightmine Field will clear a board sometimes and can be useful, Island Sanctuary has limited effect in EDH given the number of flying creatures even if it is a viable alternative to Solitary Confinement in some cases, Blazing Archon is solid, but way too expensive to affect most games, and creatures are the most fragile of permanents, and the rest is pretty bog standard Pillow Fort. Don't overestimate how secure you will be. A Pillow Fort is powerful not for making you invincible, but for changing behavior at the table by making you a less desirable target, and sometimes, a stronger Fort is weaker than a more subtle fort. Politics is the art of convincing people that your way is the best, and that often happens when they feel they are getting the better deal. I am not sure I see how the curses do that in most instances, and were you to play them against me, I am not sure I would behave the way you are suggesting people will.
1 month ago
I really like Death or Glory it can be a game changer.
Abeyance is only in 200 decks and is a white staple imo.
1 month ago
1 month ago
Island Sanctuary is just so funny. It makes almost every opponent hate you but you also can't do anything about it.
1 month ago
1 month ago
Howling Mine would be cool as well. Cool deck.
2 months ago
Neotrup Thanks for the help in one of the recent games that i was playing i had been protected for most of the game so far with having Island Sanctuary , Nephalia Academy , and Light of Day on the battlefield then after them kill each other the next thing that i realized was a swarm of 1/1 blue red flying locusts all flying towards me oneshoting me. after that yah i am updating my deck.
the deck i was using: The Halls of Protection
2 months ago
Some notes on your creatures:
First of all, you have mostly flying creatures... It proves great against cards like Island Sanctuary (although not very popular), but just a disaster waiting to happen against cards like Hurricane. In my opinion, a dragon deck should have 50-60% flying, and 40-50% Non-Flying creatures to prevent such from happening
You mana curve doesn't look too great. So let's take a look at this from a mathematical perspective, with your current setup you have 27/60% lands, and thus 33/60% spells. So 45% of the time, you will draw a land, and 55% you will draw a spell. Pretty self explanitory, isn't it?
Now let's add in what your creatures cost. You have no 1 drops, except of course Earthquake (which if you take into consideration the first paragraph of this comment, I would take out), which isn't even a 1 drop. That's usual if your not running an aggro deck.
You have 12x 2 drops, which is good for a nice starter, although to pull off casting these on turn 2, you gotta have regular lands that don't enter the battlefield tapped, I usually find that the best ways to pull this off is placing a land that taps as it enters the battlefield, like Stone Quarry, on the first turn, and placing a regular Plains on the second turn immediately allows me to start playing 2 mana cards, and gives me a good variety with what to cast. We can consider the increase of the 2 drops as our "mana peak", as it's the highest amount of CMC of your deck
3x 3 drops. This should really be somewhere up in the numbers, maybe 8, if you want a good momentemous deck, where your able to cast spells most turns.
0x 4 drops. This, in accordance with 2-3 drops, should be at around 4-6 cards. Keeping the momentum once again, as this will usually be (fastest possible) at turn 4.
Now let's just combine your 5-8 drops. You peak at 9x 5 drops, and keep steady up to 8 drops. Of course this includes all your key cards, but in a sense a deck should only need a couple key cards. Try removing some of the high drops that you have multiples of, as having higher chances of drawing that high-mana card in the starting hand is much worse than having higher chances of casting a decent low-mana card each turn and surviving until you get enough mana and draw that card.
So let's take into a good mathematical aspect, as seen above. You have a 45% chance of any card being a land, right? So on average you should have 3 mana in your hand on any given card draw. GREAT! You peak at 2 drops, so by the second turn you should somewhat be able to cast a good portion of your deck (well, with a rainbow (5 color) deck this will be harder to achieve, one aspect why 2 color decks are popular). By turn 6, you should have gained about 5 mana. On most games, turn 6 is when a lot of things kick into action, and spending all your mana to cast that one 8 mana creature, or that one 7 mana creature, will just completely get you screwed.
A good example of what proper mana-curves should look like can be found on any good deck, like Gideon, Amonkhet Paladin, or Mairsil, the Pretender l JLK (note its 100 cards), (see mana curve graph) where there is an invisible curve of converted mana costs of the cards. Beginning deck builders should be good with peaking theirs at 2-3 (which you did well with), and shouldn't have a spike at any later mana cost, to keep from you holding on to a good number of cards in your hand, just waiting for that last land to show up, and your opponent slowly bringing your life down to 0 (one of the worst situations in my opinion). Best way to help that is to keep higher mana cards to at least 1-3 by the time you get to 8 mana
Feel free to ask any questions, and hope you can improve your deck, or at least further decks you make!